Week+of+7-9+to+7-13

7-9-12 I came in today and Matt and I began working on rebuilding the scope. The following steps are necessary in rebuilding this scope. 1. Use the dremel tool to cut 5 20-gauge syringe tubes with a length of .350 in. Cut a sixth piece of 20-gauge syringe tube with a length of .800 in. After evening out the ends, it should be the about the desired length of just over .300 in and .750 in respectively.2. Take a piece of 18 gauge syring tube and cut it 9/8 in long. 3. Cut a 2 foot piece of Coaxial cable.4. Pull the 18 gauge tube over the coaxial cable. Expose about an inch of the center conductor. Then, strip about 1/4 of the center conductor.5. Take a piece of teflon tube and place the .750 in tube from earlier inside the teflon. Pull the ends of the teflon to make a tighetr fit but make sure there is enough room to fit the center conductor through it. Use silverepoxy to glue the exposed wire to the inside of the 20 gauge inside the teflon. Place in oven to dry.6. Cut 5 pieces of magnetic wire about 2 feet long ( don't need to be exact they will be cut later). Strip one of theends and attach it to the inside of one of the .350 in tubes using silver epoxy. Repeat for all five. Place in ovenafter finishing. When dried, cut five pieces of stainless steel wire. Connect them to the other ends of the 20-gauge tubes using silver epoxy. Place them in oven to dry. 7. After the other syringe tube dries to the coaxial tube, slide the 18-gauge tube down over the teflon and sryinge so that only the end is showing. Slip on the ceramic cap over the smaller siyring and place the shield over that. Glue these with the epoxy. Then use silver epoxy to create a connection between the tip holder and the shield.

7-10-12 I came in today and removed the five wire pairs and the coaxial tube from the oven. I desoldered all of the wires inside Annete's scope. Then I mapped out the pins to show which pin was connected to which BNC connector on the outside of the box. Two of the BNC connectorson the outside of the box broke when I was untwisting the BNC cable that I was using tocheck connections. I fixed the BNC connectors by resoldering them. Afterwards, Matt and I epoxied the wire pairs and syringe tube into the base of the piezo after sliding them through. Then I resoldered the wire that connects to the bias pin inside the box. When I left, the epoxy was drying in the oven. All that is left is for us to glue the steel wires to the correct electrodes on the piezo and then to solder the magnet wires to the correct pins inside the box. 7-11-12 The first thing we did was glue the z-off set steel wire to the Z-electrode on the piezo. We let that dry before we glued anything else because it is the most delicate connection. At around 11, the resistors came in. I quickly got to work on creating sample clips that would hold the resistor on top of the gold and the ceramic insulating material. Then I soldered wires to the resistor to connect to the banana clips and subsequently the power source. I tested the temperature using a new thermocouple and it got up to about 340 C at lowest resistance in about 15 seconds. 7-12-12 I spentmost of the day trying to create sample holder clips. I helped Matt with the scope but one of the wires brokeso it spent all day again in the oven. Alos, because of the melting solder when using the resistor, we will no longer be using solder to connect the wires to the resistor; we will be using crimp connectors. 7-13-12 I assisted Matt this morning as he soldered the wires from the base of the piezo to their rightful pins to connectto the electronics of the scope. We checked all of the electrical connections with the Voltmeter and then the capacitants. The Z-off to the X and Y was about twice the amount of the X and Y to each other as expected. I took the sample out of the heating block and prepared my sample holder for scanning. Matt and I tried utilizing the sample holder in the scope but found that the steel cage holding the piezo was hitting the resistor. I lapped the resistor using sandpaper and I was able to get about half of the unnecessary plastic off of the resistor with it still working. If this doesn't work, I have plans for a new sample holder that I will create using autodesk.